First it must be understood that ANYTHING you do to the bow effects tuning so it is important to set the bow up EXACTLY the way you intend to use it. If you tune your bow and then later add a bow quiver, it changes the tuning, change string silencer styles or position, changes the tuning, add limb covers or tip protector, changes the tuning.......
Granted some changes are so minor that we aren't good enough shots to detect but the changes are there none the less. Several tiny changes can add up to take a good shooting bow to poor and you scratch your head wondering why? So, if you are going to hunt with a quiver, put it on, fill it full of arrows, minus one....Exactly the way it will be when that trophy buck comes to visit....
String silencers, put them on...In most cases, place the silencers at the 1/4 points. Measure from where the string just touches the limb to the other point where it just touches the limb, divide by 4 and place the silencers there.
Your arrow rest? Extremely important for good arrow flight. Shoot off the shelf or use an elevated rest. Really it's personal choice but as a rule, instinctive shooters like to have the arrow as close to the hand as possible, that means shooting off the shelf. Many gap/point of aim shooters prefer an elevated rest. Either way, the point your arrow contacts the bow should be directly above the pressure point/low point in the grip.
Many arrow shelves are not designed to do this so you need to build up the shelf with layers of leather, the rug side of Velcro, or something to get the contact point in the correct place. See the figure below:
If the contact point is in front of or behind the low point in the grip, it makes the bow less forgiving to torque. It creates an underdraw or overdraw condition. They can be shot well that way with good form but they can be shot better if the contact point is in the proper place. The shelf material should provide some cushioning. The rug side of Velcro works well as does seal skin, or spongy leather. Your side plate in the sight window should be as thin as possible getting your arrow as close to center as possible.
Next, set the brace height at the low end of the bowyers recommendation, just twist or untwist the string to set the brace height. Install a nock point 1/2" to 3/4" above 90 degrees. Now with arrows that you think are going to be close to the correct spine and weight, take the bow out and start shooting it.
If the string is new, you want to run 75 or 100 arrows through it just to stretch the string until it settles.
Re-adjust the brace height to the low setting again if necessary. Shoot 3 or 4 arrows and pay attention to any hand shock, vibration, and noise. Put 4 or 5 twists in the string and shoot 4 or 5 more arrows, again paying attention to vibration and noise. Keep doing this until the bow starts shooting smooth and quiet, if you go above this brace height, it will start getting noise and vibration again so drop back down.
Once the best brace height is found, measure it and write it down somewhere so if you change strings or the string stretches more, you can re-adjust it without going through this process again. Now we can get to some serious tuning.